
Driving in Tuscany: What American Travelers Need to Know
14–17 minutes
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Introduction
Renting a car in Florence and exploring Tuscany? We recently did exactly that. Here’s what we learned, and what we wish every American traveler knew before getting behind the wheel.
There may be no better way to experience Tuscany than by car. On our recent trip through wine country, we drove between vineyards and hill towns, along narrow country roads, into small villages, and to wineries and countryside stays that would have been difficult to reach any other way. Driving in Italy is not quite like driving in the United States, but once you know a handful of things, it becomes one of the most rewarding parts of the trip.
On This Page
Should you rent a car in Tuscany?
Renting your car in Florence: location matters
Understand the ZTL before you drive anywhere
An American license alone isn’t the whole story
Rent a smaller car than you think you need
Don’t judge a drive by miles
Two wineries in a day is usually plenty
Parking is part of the journey
Google Maps is your assistant, not your travel planner
Be careful with Google’s “shortcut”
Understand Italian motorways and tolls
Wine tasting and driving require thoughtful planning
Don’t forget lunch
Don’t change hotels constantly
Leave something unplanned
Practical tips for driving in Tuscany
Should You Rent a Car in Tuscany?
If your trip is primarily Florence, probably not. If you’re spending several days in the Tuscan countryside, we generally would.
Many of the experiences that make Tuscany memorable, small wineries, agriturismos, countryside restaurants and villages, are scattered across the landscape rather than conveniently connected by public transportation.
The car isn’t simply transportation. It gives you freedom: the freedom to stop when you see an extraordinary view, to stay another thirty minutes at lunch, to visit a winery outside the usual tourist routes, or to spend an afternoon doing absolutely nothing at your agriturismo. That’s the Tuscany we love.
Vineyard Sunrise Insight
Don’t rent a car because you want to see more of Tuscany. Rent one because it gives you the freedom to experience Tuscany at your own pace. Public transport will get you to some cities within Tuscany, but if you want to reach a restaurant on a hillside or visit vineyards, driving is usually the most convenient way.
1. Renting Your Car in Florence: Location Matters
One of the first decisions is where to pick up your rental car. If you’re spending several days in Florence before heading into the countryside, don’t rent the car until you’re ready to leave. A car is more burden than benefit while you’re staying in central Florence.
Choose a pickup location on the outskirts of Florence so you don’t have to drive through the crowded historic streets. Before choosing a location simply because it’s closest to your hotel, look carefully at the route you’ll need to drive to get out of the city. We rented our car at the Florence Airport location.
Why? Three letters every American driving in Italy should understand: ZTL.
2. Understand the ZTL Before You Drive Anywhere
Many historic Italian cities restrict vehicles from entering parts of their centers through a Zona a Traffico Limitato, or ZTL. Florence is particularly important because a traveler unfamiliar with the city can accidentally drive into a restricted area.
Cameras monitor access, and simply following your navigation system should not be treated as proof that you’re permitted to enter.
Our rule: before leaving the rental location, know exactly how you’re getting out of Florence without entering a restricted zone. Ask the rental agency to show you the route, then confirm it on Google Maps and note the landmarks, especially if your drive takes you close to a ZTL zone.
Tuscan roads are narrow and turns come quickly. Knowing the landmarks ahead of time, before you start driving, reduces stress and helps you take the correct turn off a roundabout or choose correctly when two turns appear within fifty feet of each other. A little preparation before you set out also helps you get into the right lane in time. Looking at the landmarks near your parking structure before you begin the drive into any hill town’s center will help you avoid missing a turn, and a missed turn can easily put you inside a ZTL zone.
If you’re returning the car to Florence, do the same thing in reverse. Don’t improvise the last mile.
Vineyard Sunrise Driving Tip
When your navigation system and a ZTL sign disagree, the road sign wins.
3. An American License Alone Isn’t the Whole Story
For American travelers, this is something to arrange before leaving the United States. Italian law provides that holders of non-EU/EEA licenses driving in Italy need their valid license together with either an International Driving Permit or an official Italian translation.
For most American vacationers, obtaining an International Driving Permit (IDP) before the trip is the straightforward solution. Keep it with your regular driver’s license, not buried in your luggage at the hotel.
Vineyard Sunrise Driving Tip
Getting an IDP is simple: just go to your nearest AAA and they’ll usually have it done in less than an hour.
4. Rent a Smaller Car Than You Think You Need
American travelers are accustomed to large vehicles. Tuscany rewards the opposite. Our preference is to rent the smallest car that comfortably accommodates the people and luggage you’re carrying.
You’ll appreciate it when you’re navigating narrow village streets, squeezing into a parking space, or meeting another vehicle on a country road that suddenly feels much smaller than it did on Google Street View.
If you aren’t comfortable driving a manual transmission, reserve an automatic well in advance rather than assuming one will be available. And think about luggage: a tiny car is wonderful until four large suitcases don’t fit inside it. The sweet spot is small enough for Tuscany, large enough for your luggage.
Vineyard Sunrise Tip
If you plan to leave luggage in the car while you park in a public space, consider a station wagon. It hides luggage from view, so you can park without worrying about a break-in, and its luggage capacity is surprisingly generous for a family trip.
5. Don’t Judge a Drive by Miles
This may be one of the biggest mistakes Americans make when planning Tuscany. Twenty-five miles at home might mean twenty-five minutes. Twenty-five miles through Tuscany can mean winding roads, villages, cyclists, tractors, intersections, and the occasional moment when you slow down simply because the view is spectacular.
Google Maps is useful, but don’t construct your entire vacation around theoretically achievable arrival times.
Vineyard Sunrise Insight
When we design a wine day, we don’t ask how many wineries can we fit into this route. We ask how much driving can we remove from this day. Those are very different questions.
6. Two Wineries in a Day Is Usually Plenty
A map can make three wineries look perfectly reasonable. We rarely think that’s the best way to experience Tuscany. A winery visit isn’t supposed to feel like checking into an airport lounge.
You may meet the owner, walk through the vineyard, see the cellar, taste several wines, start talking, discover another wine, and stay longer than expected. That’s often when the experience becomes memorable. Now imagine looking at your watch because you’re already late for winery number three.
For most travelers, two thoughtfully chosen wineries in a day is plenty. Add a long lunch, perhaps a village, and leave room for Tuscany to surprise you.
7. Parking Is Part of the Journey
Don’t expect to drive into the center of every Tuscan hill town and park beside the restaurant. Often the better strategy is to find the designated parking area outside the historic center and walk in. Know where you’ll be parking before you head out, and check whether that spot tends to have space at that time of day.
Unlike in the U.S., you’ll often see locals parked where signs say no parking. Don’t assume that’s safe for you: locals know what they can get away with. Plan ahead and give yourself plenty of time to park.
Before setting out, know where am I parking, not simply where am I going. That small distinction can remove a surprising amount of stress. It’s also why Vineyard Sunrise itineraries include practical parking and access notes, not just the name of the restaurant or winery.
Finding parking in Italian cities can be challenging, so pay close attention to signs and road markings to avoid fines. A quick guide to parking line colors:
White lines: free parking, but it may be time-limited or restricted to residents. Always check for signs.
Yellow lines: reserved for specific purposes such as loading zones, taxis, or residents. Check nearby signs.
Blue lines: paid parking. Buy a ticket from a nearby machine or tobacconist and display it on your dashboard.
Pink lines: reserved for pregnant women and parents with young children.
Vineyard Sunrise Insight
Download the EasyPark app before you leave home. It’s used at parking locations across Italy, and it’s far easier than trying to decipher a kiosk with instructions only in Italian.
8. Google Maps Is Your Assistant, Not Your Travel Planner
We use navigation constantly, but there’s an important distinction between using Google Maps to navigate a route and letting it design your day.
An algorithm sees: Winery A, then 22 minutes, then Winery B, then 31 minutes, then Restaurant C. A local expert sees: wrong direction, difficult parking, you’re passing a wonderful village, and there’s a much better lunch ten minutes from Winery A. That’s the difference between logistics and judgment.
Use navigation to tell you how to get somewhere. Use thoughtful planning to decide whether you should be going there in the first place.
Vineyard Sunrise Insight
Rural Tuscany has plenty of zones where your phone will lose connectivity. Download offline Google Maps for the area you’ll be visiting. If you’re staying at an agriturismo where the last mile is on a private or dirt road, ask your host for GPS coordinates and keep them handy so you can copy and paste them on the drive back.
9. Be Careful With Google’s “Shortcut”
We’ve learned to be skeptical when navigation suddenly offers to save a few minutes by taking an obscure road. The fastest route isn’t always the route we’d choose.
In rural Tuscany, a shortcut can mean a much smaller local road or an unpaved stretch you weren’t expecting. If the main road looks sensible and the alternative saves only a handful of minutes, we generally favor the sensible road. Besides, you’re in Tuscany. Saving four minutes isn’t the objective.
10. Understand Italian Motorways and Tolls
If you’re traveling between larger destinations, you’ll probably encounter Italy’s autostrade. The system is easier than it initially appears.
At many toll entries, you collect a ticket. When exiting, the toll is calculated according to route and vehicle class. Payment lanes are clearly differentiated: credit cards are accepted in lanes marked with blue signage, while yellow signage indicates Telepass, or electronic-toll, lanes.
Vineyard Sunrise Driving Tip
Unless your rental vehicle has an appropriate electronic toll device, don’t follow another car into a Telepass-only lane simply because the barrier opens. Look at the signs before choosing your lane.
11. Wine Tasting and Driving Require Thoughtful Planning
This is one area where romantic spontaneity needs to meet common sense. Italy’s standard blood-alcohol limit for ordinary drivers is 0.5 mg/ml, with stricter zero limits for certain categories, including novice and professional drivers.
Our philosophy is simpler: design the day so drinking and driving never become an uncomfortable calculation. That may mean sharing tastings, spitting during tastings, having one person abstain, arranging a driver, choosing experiences near your accommodation, or making a guided expert day part of the trip.
A wonderful wine day should end with “what an extraordinary day,” not “do you think I’m okay to drive?”
12. Don’t Forget Lunch
This sounds like restaurant advice. It’s actually driving advice. If you schedule a winery at 10:00, another at 11:30, a quick lunch at 1:00, a winery at 2:30, and a village at 4:00, you’ve designed a workday.
We’d much rather see a winery at 10:30, a long lunch at 12:30, a winery at 3:30, and then back to the agriturismo. Lunch isn’t the gap between Tuscany experiences. Lunch is one of the Tuscany experiences.
13. Don’t Change Hotels Constantly
A car makes it tempting to keep moving. We’d resist that temptation. Checking out, loading luggage, driving, finding the next property, checking in, and unpacking consumes more of a day than it appears to on an itinerary.
For a five-day wine-country trip, we’d generally rather choose one wonderful base and design beautiful days around it. Wake up slowly, recognize the person making your coffee, learn the road back to your agriturismo, and let somewhere begin to feel familiar. That’s when travel starts becoming more than sightseeing.
14. Leave Something Unplanned
One of the joys of having a car is being able to change your mind. You see a village, so you stop. You pass a roadside stand, so you stop. The lunch is wonderful, so you stay. You get back to your agriturismo and the pool looks considerably more appealing than another town, so you stay.
An itinerary should create confidence. It shouldn’t eliminate spontaneity.
15. Practical Tips for Driving in Tuscany
Speed limits: they’re posted everywhere, and locals are almost always driving above them because they know where the stationary speed detectors are located. They slow down at the right moment while you stay at the posted speed and later find a ticket waiting once you’re home.
Tailgating: Italian drivers are notorious for it. On a freeway it’s easy to handle since you simply move right after overtaking, but it gets trickier on the single-lane highways common in Tuscany. The best approach is what locals do: give your right turn signal a couple of times, then move as far right as safely possible. That signals the car behind you to pass. Do this in a spot where the road is wide enough and it’s safe for the other driver to overtake.
Driving confidently: we recommend driving in a confident, decisive manner. When entering or exiting a roundabout, don’t hesitate. The moment you hesitate, assertive Italian drivers sense it, and it tends to make driving more difficult.
The Vineyard Sunrise Way
We don’t think the perfect Tuscany road trip is the one that covers the most ground. It’s the one where the driving almost disappears into the experience: the winery is near lunch, lunch is on the way back, the scenic road happens naturally, the village isn’t a detour, and you aren’t constantly checking the clock because someone tried to squeeze one more highly rated attraction into your day.
That’s why we design journeys around you first: where you’re staying, how you like to travel, how deeply you want to experience wine, how much driving feels comfortable, and what you want to remember when you come home. The goal isn’t to drive across Tuscany. It’s to experience Tuscany.
The Vineyard Sunrise Moment
It’s late afternoon. You’ve finished your second winery of the day and there’s nothing else on the schedule. Instead of taking the fastest road back, you follow the quieter one through the vineyards. You pass a tiny village you hadn’t planned to visit, and you stop. There’s a café, a few tables outside, and nowhere you need to be for the next two hours. That’s why you rented the car.
For the full trip-planning overview, see our Ultimate Guide to Tuscany Wine Journeys. Deciding when to go? See Best Time to Visit Tuscany Wine Country.
Travel Tips
Ten things we wish we’d known before driving in Tuscany, if we were giving advice to friends leaving Florence tomorrow morning:
Understand ZTLs before starting the car.
Arrange your driving documents before leaving the U.S.
Rent a smaller car than you would at home.
Reserve an automatic early if that’s what you need.
Know where you’ll park before entering a hill town.
Don’t equate miles with driving time.
Two wineries usually make a better day than three.
Don’t blindly follow navigation shortcuts.
Build wine days around safe transportation.
Leave enough empty space to stop when Tuscany gives you a reason to stop.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need an International Driving Permit to drive in Tuscany?
Yes, if you’re a non-EU/EEA license holder. Italian law requires your regular driver’s license along with either an International Driving Permit or an official Italian translation. Getting an IDP through AAA before you leave is quick and inexpensive.
What happens if I accidentally drive into a ZTL zone?
Cameras monitor most ZTL entrances, and a fine is typically mailed to the rental car company, which then bills you. To avoid this, confirm your exact route out of (or into) any historic center before you start driving rather than relying only on your navigation app.
Should I rent an automatic or a manual transmission car?
Manual transmissions are still the default in Italy, and automatics are more limited and more expensive. If you’re not comfortable driving a manual, reserve an automatic well in advance rather than assuming one will be available at pickup.
How many wineries can I realistically visit in one day?
We recommend two wineries per day for a relaxed pace that leaves room for a proper lunch and unplanned stops. Three is possible only if travel distances are short and one visit already includes a meal.
What should I do about drinking and driving between wineries?
Italy’s standard blood-alcohol limit is 0.5 mg/ml, with stricter zero limits for novice and professional drivers. Rather than calculating it winery by winery, design the day so it isn’t an issue: share tastings, use the spittoon, designate a driver, or book a guided day.
Is it hard to find parking in Tuscan hill towns?
It takes a bit of planning. Most hill towns expect you to park in a designated area outside the historic center and walk in. Pay attention to line colors: white for free or time-limited parking, yellow for reserved uses, blue for paid parking, and pink for pregnant travelers and parents with young children. The EasyPark app makes paying for blue-line spots much easier than using an Italian-language kiosk.
Vineyard Sunrise guides combine firsthand travel experience with information from official Italian and European transportation authorities and trusted regional sources. Our recommendations are independent, we don’t accept paid placements from wineries, hotels, or restaurants.
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